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A. There exists a code necessity for a vapor retarder in some types of assemblies, but there is no requirement to get a vapor barrier. Your layer of rigid foam is now a vapor retarder. No additional vapor retarding layer must be mounted.
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I previously sprayed and Slice cobbled 4 inch of closed cell. I will redo the roof following 12 months, but I guess now it is too late to Assume about eps/iso along with roof because i presently unvented the attic.
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Does it sound right to spray and Slash and cobble 4 inch closed mobile foam/board on underside of sheathing accompanied by fiberglass inside the bays and one inch of eps/iso underneath the rafter (to prevent thermal bridging) ahead of finishing with drywall? Will I create a vapor sandwich and better leave the ultimate EPS and accept the thermal bridging?
Leak prone areas like valleys, chimneys and skylights have ice & water defend membrane set up for additional protection and peace of mind.
You are right that this sort of roof assembly will not dry to the inside. But it isn't alleged to. I would tape the polyiso -- the tape would not induce any issues.
for an unvented design with no insulation earlier mentioned the sheathing, how about using Wooden fibreboard among the rafters straight under and in contact with the sheathing? All gaps between the boards and also the rafters crammed with growing foam / sealant. You could then include the rafters with rigid foam to carry your insulation around essential R amount and lessen the risk on the rafters and sheathing, then set up your airtight drywall beneath this.
I think that Monthly bill Rose is right: all of these failures involve humidity that address is carried by moving air. These are definitely not diffusion failures. In case the rafter bays actually are correctly dense-packed -- a major if -- the chance of Related Site air motion is incredibly very low.
I looked at the unvented schematics and I am not positive that matches the Monthly bill for up right here (Canada - west coast).
When you install a completely new roof, you wish to ensure that it lasts for many years. To do that you need to always seek the services of...
Remember: if you decide on to set up rigid foam in addition to your roof sheathing, don’t set up ventilation channels beneath the roof sheathing; both of these methods are incompatible.
The R price of your Reduce'n'cobbled foam + exterior foam has to be at least forty% of the center-cavity R value for dew point Command with the foam/fiber boundary in zone 5. If It is really arising a tad shy of that ahead of adding the exterior foam it is not a big deal from the temporary, but when it'll be 5-a decade right before re-roofing to lift the foam-R to above 40% of the full It truly is worth using vapor see post barrier latex primer about the gypsum board, or a smart vapor retarder between the gypsum board & fiberglass.